Thursday, July 10, 2014

Huong Lan (Sandwiches/Vietnamese), San Jose, CA

Huong Lan Sandwich, San Jose's own little taste of Saigon, is one of the city's most prized eateries. Thousands of hungry customers craving a Vietnamese lunch flock here daily, swamping the already packed East Bay intersection of Tully and King. Many come for a chance to taste one of the dozen signature items, twelve types of sandwiches known collectively as San Jose's best Bahn Mi, while others make the journey to pick up a pack of Xoi La Dua (Sesame Sticky Rice) or Chuoi Chien (Fried Banana). Regardless of intent, all leave happy, cradling some of the best take out food around.


My first pilgrimage to this budding institution finally occurred last week, some six months after it first landed on my radar. On a whim, I hopped in my car, set the GPS to Tully, and made the long drive over the half-dozen freeway bridges separating my home from a bite of Bahn Mi. Parking proved shockingly easy given the restaurant's location; it shares a giant lot with various other ethnic markets, Pho joints, and Panaderias. Walking inside, after a brief pause to take a mental photograph, of course, I was whacked by the aromas of toasted bread, pickled vegetables, and roasted duck. Needless to say, I was happy from that moment forward.


Huong Lan's decor was, well, interesting. Dangling precariously low above the sliding door, a massive crystal chandelier rested adjacent to an indoor fountain. The ceiling, a mosaic of composite tiles and fluorescent lights, looked like your average office building. Underfoot, a linoleum floor added a touch of supermarket flair. A conglomeration of tables sat in the far corner, almost daring the customer to stay and eat. Approaching the counter, I was met by a multitude of glares from the waiting kitchen staff. Though I felt unwelcome, I shrugged off my apprehension and ordered a BBQ Pork Bahn Mi, single pack of Sesame Sticky Rice, and Mango Smoothie. "Five dollars", muttered the cashier. In awe of the low price, I put my twenty back in my pocket, pulled out a five, and proceeded to take a seat.


Less than a two minutes later, my number rang out over the loudspeaker. Caught off guard by the rapidity of Huong Lan's food preparation, I tentatively approached the counter, grabbed my meal, and returned to my seat. Unwrapping the Bahn Mi, I did a inconspicuous fist pump and bit down on the end of the crispy, flaky French roll. The sandwich, as expected, was heavenly. Burning Jalapenos and succulent sliced Pork battled for prevalence from the first bite until the last. Underneath it all, hints of Cilantro and vinegar from the pickled carrots added refreshing flavors that contrasted the carbohydrate fest above. Coming in at one foot and $3 a sandwich, the value was nearly as spectacular as the taste.


My joy at finding a sandwich spot was dulled after sipping the Mango Smoothie, an icy mess of artificial fruit (unlike many other establishments in San Jose, Huong Lan uses fake syrups to flavor their drinks). Though disappointing, for the price, it wasn't a deal breaker. The Sesame Sticky Rice, thankfully, made up for the smoothie. Coconut Milk and Sesame were highlighted in the half dozen thick blocks of starch that made up the dessert. For $1.75, it was more than worth the price. After finishing my sandwich, engulfing the Sticky Rice, and throwing out the smoothie, I returned to my car and set out the long return journey home, stomach full and happy.


Huong Lan on Urbanspoon

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